Guide to Using Acids in Skincare
June 17, 2024
Key Takeaways
Diverse Benefits of Acids: Different acids provide various skincare benefits like anti-aging, exfoliation, and acne treatment, with ascorbic acid for anti-aging, glycolic acid for exfoliation, and salicylic acid for acne.
Choosing the Right Acid: Select acids based on skin type and concerns; mature skin benefits from glycolic, lactic, and ascorbic acids, while acne-prone skin can use azelaic, salicylic, glycolic, lactic, and mandelic acids.
Usage Guidelines: Avoid using certain acids together to prevent irritation and ensure effectiveness, alternating their use between morning and evening routines.
When you think of applying an “acid” to the face it may sound scary. Yet when certain kinds of acids are used in skincare in the right formulation, they are extremely beneficial to the skin.
Let’s take a look at the most common acids in skincare and how to choose the ones right for you. We’ll cover ascorbic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, salicylic acid, mandelic acid, and kojic acid in this article.
Common Acids in Skincare
- Ascorbic acid is the most common water-soluble form of vitamin C, and is used in skincare for its anti-aging benefits. It’s also used in treating melasma. Ascorbic acid is very unstable in the presence of oxygen and water, so ensuring a stable form is very important. For example, the Ascorbic Acid + Gold + Glutathione in CBE Botanicals™ Triple C + Gold improves the stability of ascorbic acid, and extends the lifespan of ascorbic acid in the skin. Glutathione is a precursor to ascorbic acid, so it regenerates ascorbic acid as it is used up by our skin. This results in an effective delivery system that far outperforms any percentage of free ascorbic acid or other ascorbic acid derivatives.
- Glycolic acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Because it has a small molecular structure, it penetrates well. It’s kind of an all-in-one anti-aging ingredient. Glycolic acid will exfoliate, reduce wrinkles, prevent acne, fade dark spots, increase skin thickness, and even out skin tone and texture. The best concentration is 8%. Glycolic acid might be used in stronger percentages when used in peels for treating acne and pigmentation, sometimes with microdermabrasion or micro needling. However, this should be performed by a Pro. A favorite cleanser, CBE Botanicals™ Scrub Away the Day which incorporates Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid and Salicylic Acid is wonderful for deeply cleansing and gently exfoliating the skin.
- Lactic acid is an AHA that acts as an exfoliant. It lightens uneven pigmentation and smooths out skin texture. Lactic acid is an AHA almost as popular as glycolic acid. It is known for being gentler, more hydrating, and more effective at treating sun damaged skin. Poly-L-Lactic Acid (PLLA), a synthetic form of lactic acid, is also used in skincare to stimulate collagen production, providing additional anti-aging benefits and enhancing skin elasticity.
- Salicylic acid is ideal for exfoliating the skin and keeping pores clear,
- Salicylic acid reduces blackheads and acne. NeoGenesis Salicylic Acid is recommended for its efficacy. In higher concentrations, it’s used as a peeling agent for acne scars, melasma, sun damage, and age spots.
- Mandelic acid is another AHA. It too exfoliates and prevents acne, helps sun damage, and evens out pigmentation. Due to its larger molecular structure, it doesn’t penetrate skin as deeply as glycolic acid. This just means it is less irritating to the skin. It is often used in peels to replace glycolic acid when glycolic acid is not working. NeoGenesis Mandelic Acid is a good choice for sensitive skin.
- Kojic acid is a popular ingredient in Asian skincare products for its whitening (dark spots) and anti-aging properties. It is produced by bacteria used in the fermentation of rice for the production of sake. If not formulated well it can be irritating to skin but it’s very effective.
How to Choose an Acid
Choosing the right acid depends on your specific skin concerns and goals. The main three categories for choosing an acid are:
Mature Skin (Anti-aging): Glycolic, Lactic, Ascorbic
Fading Pigmentation: Glycolic, Lactic, Ascorbic, Kojic
Acneic Skin: Azelaic, Salicylic, Glycolic, Lactic, Mandelic
You’ll need to experiment to find the best combinations that work for YOUR skin. The safest and easiest one to try first is products with Glycolic Acid. It’s the closest to an all-in-one skincare acid as they come. CBE Botanicals™ Revive Exfoliating Serum is my favorite. It offers comprehensive benefits, making it an excellent starting point for those new to using acids in their skincare routine.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Can I Use Acids if I Have Sensitive Skin?
Sensitive skin types should start with gentler acids like lactic acid and perform patch tests to ensure tolerance.
Q: How Long Should I Wait to See Results From Using Acids?
Typically, results can vary from a few weeks to a couple of months, depending on the acid used and the skin’s response.
Here’s Some Additional Pro Tips When Using Acids:
- Don’t use salicylic acid with any other acid during the same application. Skin irritation may occur. Alternate applications.
- Avoid using AHA’s with prescription retinol for best results or use them in the AM, and retinol in the PM.
- Don’t use glycolic and lactic acids in combination with ascorbic acid (vitamin C). This will prevent vitamin C from being effective.
PRO TIP: To use conflicting acids simply use one in the AM, the other in the PM. You’ll still get results using them once daily.
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originally posted on https://christinebyeresthetics.com/ June 17th, 2024
